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TSB 21-002-01 0 Gear Train Sound When Manual Transmission Is In Neutral

Subject

This article describes how to perform TSB-21-002-01 which describes a fix for a gear train sound in 2000-2001 Wranglers that occurs when the manual transmission is in neutral with the clutch out.

Problem Description

The following excerpt comes from the Chrysler TSB 21-002-01 Symptom and Condition section:

"The customer may experience a transmission gear train sound when the engine is at idle and the transmission is in neutral with the clutch released. The sound may be described as a light gear rattle or gear growl. The gear train sound may appear to be coming from the transmission shifter and/or center console area. The sound may be more noticeable in higher ambient temperatures or as the transmission reaches its operating temperature. The gear train sound enters the passenger compartment by way of the transfer case range lever linkage. A revised torque shaft has been released to improve the isolation of the gear train sound."

On my Jeep, I heard what sounded like someone threw a marble in my transmission. As the Chrysler description states, this sound is only heard when the clutch is released.

Parts

We will be replacing the range lever linkage and mounting bracket. You will need to visit your Jeep dealer and purchase:

Part Number: 52078872AC - Shaft, Transfer Case Torque

Then visit an auto parts store and purchase some assembly lube.

Repair Steps

This is a pretty simple repair that can be done with standard garage tools. I also had to use a pry bar to give me some leverage when doing the removal, but other than that, just your standard wrenches and such will do. I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention, but I'd say this took about 2 hours from start to finish.

Step 1 - shift transfer case into neutral

Step 2 - Remove Carpet Screws

There are two plasic screws that are just behind the brake pedal and clutch that hold the carpet in place. These will need to be removed. In the picture below, I have removed the carpet screw on the left side, but the right side is still in place.

Step 3 - Fold Carpet

Instead of removing the carpet you can just make a tunnel under the carpet to the screws you need to get at. In the picture below, I've raised the carpet enough so I can see the four screws that are holding the range level bracket.

Step 4 - Remove Skid Plate

The Chrysler instructions doesn't have you do this, but for sanities sake, I would suggest removing the skid plate. You can probably get by without doing this, but be prepared for a little fight on your hands while trying to wiggle the mounting bracket out. If you'd like, you can always wait and see how it goes before removing the skid plate. If you haven't removed the skid plate before please refer to my cross member removal artcle.

Step 5 - Remove Bolts Retaining the Transfer Case Shifter

Using a 10 mm socket, remove the four bolts (reaching through your carpet tunnel) that hold the transfer case bracket in place.

Step 6 - Remove Shifter Connection

In this step, remove the 14 mm bolt that connects the transfer case shifter to the transfer case. In the picture below, I've shown a completely removed shifter bracket and identified the arm that leads to the transfer case. Notice how the arm is notched on the end so the bracket will only fit a particular way.

Step 7 - Remove Bracket

This step sounds so easy, "Remove Bracket", but it is really the hardest part. What we need to do is pry the torque shaft from the green bushing. To prepare for this, get your pry bar, a good pair of gloves, some testosterone pills, and go for it. It doesn't come out easy and when it does come out it will pop out all of sudden (thus the reason for the gloves). The torque shaft has a self-retaining shape so it will just take muscle to get it out. I'd say this took me about 10 minutes of pushing, pulling and cursing to get this thing out.

Step 8 - Swap Arms

With the bracket off of the Jeep, it is time to swap the arms from the old bracket to the new bracket. There is not much I can tell you here. Just use common sense.

To help with the arm removal I used my bench vice and a hammer. In the picture below, you can see how the flange on the arm can provide a spot to pound against with a small hammer.

Step 9 - Reassemble Everything

We're just about done. All that's left is to put it back together which is really pretty simple - just do it all in reverse. Make sure you use assembly lube on all of the joints.

The only part I had a little trouble with was getting the 10 mm bolts into the bracket when you are reaching your article through the carpet tunnel. This would have been much easier if I had a helper, but my wife and kids were not interested. What I did, was run a small piece of wire through the holes in bracket and then through the holes in the floor of the Jeep. This allowed me to pull the bracket tight against the transmission tunnel and I could get the 10 mm bolt in.

Summary

Well, did it work? It actually did! After looking at the old bracket I did not think this would do much, but it actually solved the problem. Good luck - I hope your fix goes as smoothly as mine did.

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